Algarve

It may be best known among lager-swilling Brits for the fish-and-chip resort of Albufeira, but the Algarve offers an immense variety of holiday experiences. Most British visitors head for the area between Lagos in the west and the regional capital, Faro. Strung along the coast between them are resorts of all shapes and sizes, jostling for access to endless beaches. Often flanked by cliffs, these are lapped by Atlantic waters that are unusually warm, thanks to the south-facing orientation.

There’s even more stunning scenery further west, around Sagres (Europe’s south-western corner), and up the west coast, though the waves here are colder. East of Faro, towards the ancient town of Tavira, there are sand bars that are less dramatic than the coves of the western Algarve, but often less crowded. Inland is the Serra de Monchique, with its isolated villages and thermal spa, while to the northeast, are the wide open spaces along the Guadiana, which forms the border with Spain.

It’s in the interior that you’ll glean most about the region’s interesting history. The Moors remained here longer than they did in the rest of Portugal, and while there are some highly visible legacies – such as the castle at Silves – their influence remains in many other areas, from traditional sweets to the shape of chimneys. It was in the 1970s that another, rather different invasion began: tourism. Brits led the charge with Continental Europeans close behind; the result being that it’s not unusual for a local café owner to have a smattering of German.

Local history

The northern hills that separate the Algarve from the rest of Portugal meant that influences came directly through Spain (or Africa): the Phoenicians stopped off on their way to found Lisbon, the Romans brought wine, wheat and ultimately Christianity, but it is the Moors’ long sojourn that marks the region out. Its name derives from the Arabic al-Gharb, or ‘the west’: in this case, of Islamic Andalusia. After the 13th-century Christian Reconquest, the region played a key role in Portugal’s 15th-century golden age: many crew on the caravels that rounded the Cape of Good Hope for India or further afield were Algarvians. Like Lisbon, the region was shattered by the huge earthquake of 1755. It recovered slowly, remaining rural a backwater until transformed by tourism.

Local politics

While tourism has thrown up a few eyesores, it’s undeniable that the pounds and euro it brings have hugely boosted the local economy. Some carp about the impact on society and the environment, fearing the region is irrevocably spoiled, but most Algarvians are pleased their region has gone from dirt poor to a modern consumer society. They are accepting of foreigners’ funny ways, and still charm with their unpretentious hospitality.